The Blog of E.M. FitzGerald

It seems like yesterday that I arrived in Thailand, naive about the culture, society and country. I knew none of the language, and most certainly was unsure of myself in this new and strange environment. Originally I was to spend 3 months in Thailand, but on the third day here, my friend Nick and I decided that was going to be far too long. We changed our plans, and figured that 7 weeks in country would be more than enough time to get used to the people and Muay Thai. Now, with 1 day left in Thailand I can reflect upon the experiences that I’ve had.

Without a doubt, my Muay Thai prowess has improved more than I thought possible. My technique is not flawless, but it is very good. Every strike I undertake, I hit with power as opposed to weakness. My form, balance and general fitness level have improved despite not running due to poor conditions. During the first month I learned the basics, and was taught by the instructors how to fight Muay Thai. Every session they molded me into what they believed to be a Muay Thai fighter, as they all themselves had fought and knew pretty well what they were doing. During each session I improved visibly. The basic and advanced footwork became 2nd nature fast, and the position of the hands and the leaning forward of the body came second. After that, it was all about turning the hip over to expel as much power into the pads as possible during a leg strike. My blows became ferocious, and lacked in nothing except for perhaps a bit of speed. In the first month they built me up to handle whatever was thrown at me in the ring.

During the last two weeks, the finesse aspect of Muay Thai has come into play. There has been a greater focus on blocking, and protecting the body as well as landing quick, hard blows as opposed to taking time to kick and punch. Telegraphing strikes is not a good thing, and I discovered that when I did it in the ring with the trainers, they would let me know by coming after me with a shower of blows. I also learned how to toughen up my body. After training every day, one of the instructors and I would join up, and he would pummel my abs. I had to clench and flex my abdominal muscles with all that I had to protect my vital organs, and in the process my abs were strengthened and I knew what it felt like to take a blow in the mid-section.

Now, my body is finally starting to break down. I feel that I need a vacation. At the beginning of this blog I wrote down my desire to visit Hong Kong, and now I am going to. I will be going there for a week, a week of no Muay Thai and no physical fitness. It is to be a proper vacation, as opposed to a fitness holiday. And if you’ve been reading this blog you know, I need a break!!!

As I sit here in the internet cafe down the street from the Muay Thai gym, looking out the window I see torrential rain cascading down from the heavens outside the window. The awning over the entryway is flapping something fierce, and looks that in one large gust it may blow off entirely. A few minutes prior I saw that the weather was about to take a turn for the worst. The sky darkened overhead, and the wind picked up to the point of nearly blowing people over. Then, without warning down came the rain to wash away all the muck, dirt and garbage that accumulates all over Phuket. Where this trash goes, who knows? Out to sea perhaps, or maybe elsewhere. All I know is that the puddles after rain like this, which usually are huge as the rain lasts non-stop for hours, can go several feet deep on roads that should be only one way but are two. Traffic congestion happens, and it isn’t safe to walk anywhere on the roads. Lovely.

Normally I do not mind the rain, it cools down the temperature which makes life easier for the students at the gym. As less heat = less sweat, even though the humidity is at 100%. What happens after the training is the issue however. During the rainy season (which is now), Phuket never really gets dry. There is water everywhere, which mean a lot more bugs and creepy crawlies. The biggest problem for the students however, is that nothing dries out. Muay Thai shorts that are sweaty and smelly never get a chance to dry, which leaves them wet and smelly the next time one puts them on. This goes for any clothing that gets wet as well. Since the heat of Thailand serves as the best dryer I’ve ever seen, when that heat is gone everything remains wet. These wet clothes cause the students to be wet, which in turn causes illness. Not so lovely.

The rain also prevents the going of anywhere substantial on the island of Phuket, as no one wants to be caught out in it. Therefore we students tend to stick to our domiciles in this weather, trying our best to enjoy Phuket despite the nasty weather. There is a small library (which I have added to in my time here) for the students. All one has to do to borrow a book is to go up and take it, no questions asked. I have already read 3 books, and I am starting on a 4th.

A nice diversion from reading and watching the rain drops falling on my head has been the world cup, as well as the satellite TV that the gym gets. Though I am not a fan of television, there are occasionally movies on the tube, which my friend Nick and I occasionally watch. Otherwise, all there is to do is shoot the shit with the other students. Since it is raining the mosquitoes tend to go away, so all one has to contend with is the wet weather. I would rather have the mosquitoes, at least when they are around I can go outdoors without fear of getting drenched!!!

Thai women are everywhere in Phuket, though it seems that a certain variety tend to congregate in bars where they will call and rush out to meet any foreigner, pulling him into their depraved clutches. The women themselves are not depraved in the normal sense of the word, but when a farang walks by a bar it seems as though nothing else in the world matters to these women except to get the foreigner to come to the bar and buy them drinks. This consumption of alcohol inevitably leads to other, more unsavory acts that the booze addled brain finds acceptable.

I am of course bringing up the topic of the Ladies of the Night who make Phuket their homes. Due to the large influx of foreigners to this island, there is an incredible supply as well as demand for cheap thrills and spills. In every bar these “bar girls” make their living, plying their trade to the foreign men visiting the island. In fact, some people come to Thailand just to have relations with these women, an interesting phenomenon. As prostitution is illegal in most parts of the U.S., it seems that the sexual depraved and somewhat adventurous among us have decided that in Phuket they will get all the thrills they could ever desire.

These “bar girls” are everywhere. Besides in bars, they are often seen on the backs of motor scooters, with farangs doing the driving. For many of these women, it is a way to make a living. For a short while (or a long while depending on how much they are paid), they live in luxurious surroundings that have air conditioning, often a large bed and cable TV. Some of the bar girls in Phuket will even sleep with a farang just to obtain these pleasures for a short while, all the cost of selling their bodies.

A strange business, this bar girl idea. Many of them are quite pretty, (except the lady boys) and tend to be more than willing to engage in explicit acts if one buys them a drink or two. Avoiding these women is all but impossible, though there are ways to make yourself invisible to them. If walking with a woman, in this particular case I was escorting her to her accommodations as I try my best to be a gentleman, the bar girls will only give you a look and seeing that you are with a woman will disregard you. On the return trip from being an escort (as it was dark outside and the pervading sense of lawlessness in Phuket has become quite clear to me), I was accosted by around 10 different women, all trying to pull me into their places of work so that I could drink and commit myself to engaging in dirty and potentially ecstasy-inducing acts. In this case, as in all other cases I have tried my best to avoid these women like the plague. While I am a man, and certainly there is a calling there to release certain tensions, there is no way that I would think to get into some risky business with a Phuket prostitute. The risk of aids is high, as well as other stds, which, quite frankly I do not need. My standards are far to high to allow such trifling things like prostitution to enter into my mind-space which I inhabit. I don’t want it, or need it.

Yet, despite my constant uninterest, I see them everywhere. Women call from massage parlors, bars, the backs of scooters, stores, just about every conceivable place. Men, in Phuket are in far more danger than women it seems. Unnerving as it is, one somehow gets used to the constant exposure of flesh. For example, just last night I was eating at a reputable establishment, and enjoying my meal. Outside, I heard the noise of a scooter pulling up to the spot. From around the corner came a farang in the lead, a prostitute who looked to be about 14 (was probably more like 23 in reality) on his arm, and another prostitute who had come to dinner in lingerie trailing behind them. Her fake breasts pushed up to her chin, she looked quite ridiculous but it seemed as though like she was trying to maintain some dignity and was quite embarrassed at having come to eat a meal in nothing but thin unformalwear. Uninterested in the wanton display of flesh, I continued eating my meal as though nothing were wrong, as I had seen it several times before at this point. Had this occurred in the States, I am 100% certain that my eyes would not have left her until she had put something on or had left the restaurant. Not entirely because of the alluring sight of bare flesh, but more at the audacity wearing such scintillating attire to dinner!

As of late I have had a substantial lack of energy during the day time. When I get into the ring with the instructors, all semblance of “raring to go” deserts me and leaves me quite beat. After two rounds I have been out of breath and close to collapse, this is not good and I have done my best to try to figure out the answer.

At first I thought my issue was that I wasn’t able to acclimate to the heat of Thailand, and that the insane power of the sun was sapping my energy during the day. As such, I decided that I needed to spend more time in a cooler environment and out of the sun, as this would most certainly cure my lack of energy. Taking a few days off from the beach I stayed inside an air-conditioned room and slept for a good portion of the day in the hopes of getting my usual exuberant energy back. Yet, it was to no avail as I still had no energy during the training sessions. I was sucking breath in the ring, and had to go at less than half my usual intensity. I had done this lack of activity/cool down day on Sunday, which is the day off from training and on Monday my condition was no better. Determined to figure out the problem, I pressed on.

The next thing that I tested was my cardiovascular fitness. I have not been running much in Thailand due to my incredible distaste of the running conditions. Running on the road next to crazy drivers, all the while inhaling nasty fumes, smoke from burning crap that seems to be everywhere and the general humidity of the area do not appeal to me at all. Usually I run far more, so I thought that maybe I wasn’t able to cut it due to my lack of running. On the morning of Tuesday I headed out to do a 2k run, which I ended up running very well and at a very fast time despite being half-asleep during most of the time my legs were churning. I got back to the gym not feeling any worse or better, and during the pad work I was still beat.

Then I thought it was maybe my sleep, but I sleep a good 8-9 hours a night in Phuket so I quickly dismissed that potential problem. The only thing that I could think of next was my diet. In the U.S. I eat 3 good meals a day to keep me happy and healthy, whereas in Thailand I eat two meals a day with some snacking in between. Perhaps, just perhaps this was the source of my problem?! As such, I examined my diet and discovered a serious lack of fruit and vegetables. I had been eating mostly proteins and some carbs, which is most certainly not a healthy way to live. That night, on Tuesday I decided to load up on the food and check the results during the next training session. I had a protein shake, chicken sawtee, fried chicken with vegetables, brown rice and mixed fruit. It came to 325 baht, but for the first time in over a month I actually felt full and was loaded with calories to burn. The next morning I awoke to the sounds of students getting ready for training, and joined them. Getting into the ring I had a ton of energy! I was able to go all 5 rounds with the instructor, as well as all 5 rounds on the heavy bag with ease, and even after that I had more energy to spare. I spent some of that jumping rope for another 5 minutes before finishing my workout.

Diet is incredibly important for an individual training in Thailand, as it will be very easy to not eat enough. The main reason why I was skimping on meals is due to the fact that I didn’t want to spend any money on them. I learned through this process that one cannot disregard the impact that food has on the potential to workout hard. Since I discovered the problem, I have been eating a good meal for both breakfast and dinner as well as snacking during the midday, giving me tons of energy with which to train!!!

As of late I have tried to focus myself on nothing but training, and physical conditioning. I have attempted to construct a positive mentality for myself in this regard, leaving everything that is “unimportant” on the side and going gung-ho with Muay Thai. Having this new attitude, I decided to see how far I could push my body in terms of physical strength. Having been in Thailand for a while, I decided that it was time to conduct a test of my capabilities, to see just how well the training was working for me. During my time in Thailand I have been lifting weights many days during the week between the workouts, so I figured that it would be easy to pass what most people consider to be a “hard” test. Looking around a bit online, I decided that I wanted to be “hardcore”, so I chose the workout test that the actors of 300 did at the beginning and end of their training cycle to mark their levels of fitness for the film. I had heard this 300 test was very hard, so I decided to give it a shot.

The 300 test is composed of:

25 pull-ups

50 dead-lifts at 135 pounds

50 push-ups

50 box jumps with a 24 in. box

50 floor wipers

50 clean and press with a 36 pounds kettle bell

25 pull ups

Not having done dead-lifts in over a month, I was a bit nervous but I decided to go ahead with the test anyway. The test is supposed to be timed, but I decided to skip that part as all I wanted was a baseline setting so I could track my progress. Starting, I manged 19 pull-ups, not bad considering the most I’ve ever been able to do prior was 12. I then did 25 dead-lifts at 135, as I hadn’t lifted in a long time and didn’t want to totally destroy myself. I could have done the full 50, but I doubt I would be able to walk afterward. The 50 push-ups were a breeze, as were the 50 box jumps. I did 10 of the 50 floor wipers, I have never done them before and found it hard to keep myself centered on the bench. I did the full 50 clean and press, but with a 26 pound kettle bell instead of a 36 pound variant. To finish, I did 14 pull-ups.

I felt quite proud of myself, and was happy that my new-found “warrior” mentality had paid off, as I had tried my best to have the ferocity of a tiger during my test. After the test I lifted a few weights, and the did the afternoon workout.

Skip to the next day.

Soreness like no other. My lower back, thanks to not having done dead-lifts in over a month hurts and getting out of bed took far longer than it should have. My shoulders were also sore from the workout, as were my abs, calves and hamstrings. I hadn’t been so sore in years, which is a bit surprising because I tend to workout very hard when I put my mind to it. I had to take off all the practices yesterday due to this soreness, as kicking with a sore lower back felt no good at all. Instead of doing the workout, I decided that I wanted to recover as quickly as possible; I went to the massage parlor for a Thai massage.

Arriving at the parlor I almost said foot massage, as those are relaxing and I often fall asleep. However I knew that I needed to release the lactic acid from my muscles, so I went with the Thai massage. I had heard stories about the Thai massage before, and how potentially painful it could be. With my sore limbs, I knew that I was in for a treat of no small proportions. Tales of pain, being hard of breath and some serious joint cracking rattled through my mind as I took off my shirt and took my place face down on the massage bed. A lithe looking Thai woman gave me a glass of water, let me finish it then began her torture.

She started with my feet, which was fine. She then, with surprising strength began to dig an elbow into my tender calf muscles. For the next 30 minutes I was sucking in breath, trying to keep my small cries of pain as quiet as I possibly could. The legs weren’t even the worse part, that turned out to be my back. With hands like hammers and fingers like daggers she proceeded to cause me some serious muscular discomfort as she prodded and kneaded my back. Then, in the middle she told me that if I wanted she could go harder. Already squirming with the pain, short of breath with eyes watering, I was just fine with the current amount of pain thank you very much, and told her so. After spending about 20 minutes on my back alone, pummeling it thoroughly she moved onto my arms. I soon discovered that my forearms were sore, as she made it painfully clear that they were. Once my arms had been massaged, I turned over and she worked on my neck and the front of my legs. I swear she was using nearly all of her body weight in the process, but my eyes were closed as I quite simply did not want to look at what was happening.

After what seemed like 3 hours (it was only a bit longer than an hour), she finished. I slowly got off the massage bed and paid her the 250 baht that I owed her. I cannot describe the joy that I felt once the massage was finished. Hoping to feel like a new man once I was done, I walked out the door and into the Thai sunshine.

Sadly though, I didn’t feel like a new man. I did however feel like a man in a lot less pain, which was a relief. The Thai woman had gotten rid of a good amount of the lactic acid in my muscles, and I felt as though I could likely train the day after. I still didn’t feel 100% though, so I decided to get a haircut. The salon is right next to the massage parlor, so it was a quick trip there. Annoyingly, the woman who cuts the hair there does a poor job and only knows how to give buzz cuts to men. I do this to my hair back home for free, she however charges 100 baht for it and leaves tufts of hair standing where everything else has been cut. At the end of my haircut I asked for a shave as well. Since I have never had someone shave me before, I figured why not? It cost 150 baht though, which put me off a bit but that’s life I guess. She took me to the back room, and using as little shaving gel as possible covered my face. Using a sole razor blade she proceeded to give me the worse shave I have ever had. I was thinking that because I was paying for it, that it would be very well done. Surprise! Not at all. She left a ton of hair on my face still, and she cut me up something fierce. The only reason I had asked her to do it is because I have no shaving gel and have been dry shaving here in Thailand, which is no fun at all.

After the lame haircut and the lame shave, I headed over to the convenience store (also next door), and bought a disposable razor. I had bought one before and it didn’t work very well, so I went with a different kind. Luckily, this one worked just fine and I was able to finish the shave the barber had started. Depressed that I had just spent 500 baht on something besides food, I retreated to my room a bit dejected and still sore.